View from Puncak Gunung Geurute |
Option 1: Head from Takengon to Bireuen and then follow the Lintas Timor until its end
We did not choose this option but were told that the road connecting
Takengon to Lintas Timor is in great condition. I don’t have any information about
the condition of the road once you reach Lintas Timor. However, from my
experience on other parts of this road, I am pretty sure it’s super busy and
full of trucks and busses who seem to race each other. This route is the
shorter option but if you have enough time and enjoy driving thrilling mountain
roads, I recommend taking option 2.
Option 2: Head from Takengon to Meulaboh and follow the Lintas Barat to its end
Check out the route on Google Maps |
The road from Lake Takengon to Meulaboh was one of the most
memorable, exciting, and challenging roads we have been on during our road trip
around Sumatra. Make sure that your breaks are in great condition and fill up
on gas before attempting to take this route. It passes through some remote areas
and has several very long and steep inclines.
Soon after leaving Takengon the paved road turned into an extremely
bumpy dirt road with huge potholes. It was discouraging as we still had a long
way to go and we were wondering if we might have taken a wrong turn somewhere,
as we’ve been told by locals that this route is in good condition. When we
finally passed someone to ask for directions, he confirmed that we were on the
correct route and told us to just hang in there a little bit longer as it will
get much better soon. Thankfully he was right! This bumpy stretch was probably around
12km long but judging by the many busy roadworkers we passed in this part of Aceh
it will be taken care of soon.
Once we were on the paved road again it continued climbing
higher and higher up into the mountains until it reached the top. From there it
felt like a rollercoaster ride. The road runs along the top of the mountain range
with steep inclines and turns connecting its many hills. We were repeatedly
driving downhill for 20 seconds to then, right away, drive uphill for another
20 seconds. As you can probably imagine, driving along the mountain range gave
us spectacular views over the surrounding mountains and rainforest. I still
regret that we did not stop to take more pictures.
From there the road continues to cross over several
mountains. This stretch of the road is quite dangerous as there are very long and
steep inclines. You’ll drive straight uphill for 10 minutes to then drive
straight downhill on the other side of the mountain for another 10 minutes. Make
sure to put your car in low gear and stop to let your breaks cool down if
necessary. There is no phone signal on some parts of this route so it’s helpful
to have an offline map available. You won’t get lost without it as there are no
other roads but it’s always good to know where you are and how much longer it
will take you to get to your next destination.
I found this road amazing. Yes, it’s challenging and nerve wrecking, but it also has spectacular views and gave me a deep appreciation of the hard work it takes to build and maintain a road like this in such a remote area. If you love mountain roads, this is definitely the perfect route for you.
On the way to Meulaboh |
Meulaboh
Meulaboh is a small city and good spot to spend the night.
It has several hotels in different prices ranges and some beaches just outside
the city center where you might be able to camp. Meulaboh has many shops in
case you need to stock up on supplies. We also found an express laundry which
was able to have our embarrassingly smelly clothes clean again and ready for
pick up the next morning. It’s called VIP Laundry Gampa and if
you arrive late like us, just ask them to wash and dry without ironing so it’ll
be ready the next morning. It might sound wired but Danu and I were super
excited about finding this laundry. Freshly washed clothes feel like such a
luxury when you’re on a road trip.
When in the city, make sure to have a coffee and snack with
the locals at Warkop Mae. It’s fascinating to watch them brew their
coffee the traditional way. They pour it several times through a large sieve
filled with coffee powder using special hand movements. Given the continuous stream
of customers it must be one of the best coffee places in town. You can also check
it out here in our video.
Meulaboh to Banda Aceh
Lintas Barat connects Meulaboh to Banda Aceh. It’s an easy and
beautiful dive along the coast. The road is in fantastic condition with little
traffic and almost no trucks. You just got to be mindful of the many cows who
like cross this road in a very chilled way. There are several great spots to
stop along the road if you feel like taking a rest or need some food. Here are
a few of them:
Kuala Merisi Beach is a long sandy beach with
many small simple restaurants just a few hundred meter off the Lintas.
A few stretches of the Lintas pass over some hills. One of
those places is Puncak Gunung Geurute where the locals have built
several warungs on the edge of the cliff. They all have amazing views over the bay
and surrounding hills. It’s the perfect spot to relax with a fresh coconut.
Pantai Lhoknga is a beach just about half an hour from Banda Aceh. There are a lot of restaurants selling delicious grilled fish. It’s a great spot to eat and refresh before heading into the city or to the harbour on your way to Pulau Weh.
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